Mexican Drinks Come in a Multitude of Flavors

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Your first licuado is like your first kiss. Years later, you still remember where you were when your lips first felt the frothy delight of a drink with the sex motion of a milkshake and the condition benefits of a smoothie. Especially since you probably were somewhere relatively exotic.

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I was in the mercado in Mexico City's Coyoacan neighborhood, wandering wide-eyed straight through an ambrosial plenty of fruits and vegetables, inhaling the mingling scents of ripening papaya and drying peppers and regretting that I didn't have a kitchen in my hotel room.

Even in that sophisticated part of town, ingesting liquid that didn't come in a can or bottle and wasn't boiled or rendered unobjectionable by alcohol seemed like a grand adventure. But sitting there in the middle of all those mangoes and bananas and pineapples, the licuado bar was irresistible. I ordered a strawberry-flavored drink and felt like more than a traveler sitting on a tall stool, watching the action.

Licuados - like aguas frescas and limonadas - have been liquid "street food" in Mexico and South America since the pre-Columbian era. They've been low on the U.S. Radar until recently, but now those trend-setting Californians are so crazy for them that a Los Angeles restaurateur has dubbed licuados "the next burrito." And why not? They're a healthful, cheap selection to smoothies and Starbucks. Just .50 will get you 16 ounces at most refresquerias in Houston.

They're also easy to make at home.

A quick primer: Licuados (pronounced lee-Quah-dos) are thin milkshakes blended with fresh or icy fruit and sometimes lightly sweetened with honey or sugar. Aguas frescas are sweetened fruit waters. A limonada is a Mexican limeade. Horchatas (pronounced or- Chah-tas) look milky but are dairy-free blends of rice or melon seeds.

All can be nutritious snacks (if you go easy on the sugar), palate-soothing accompaniments to a fiery meal and a fun alternative for the nonalcoholic set.

Licuados also make a good, fast and healthy breakfast, giving you a protein and calcium boost that's filling but not heavy. Make them as rich as you like, using whole or non fat milk or non dairy soy and rice beverages. A good basic method calls for 1 1/2 cups each of milk and your selection of fruit, a tablespoon or two of honey or sugar and a cup of ice. You don't even have to chop fresh fruit if you're in a hurry: icy fruit smoothie mixes work fine. Throw all the ingredients in the blender (la licuadora, get it?), turn it on, and you're there.

The fruit options are wide open. Berries, mangoes and papayas are beloved choices, but you don't have to get fancy. A easy banana licuado sprinkled with a minuscule cinnamon is still my favorite.

You've probably seen aguas frescas beckoning from the counters of Mexican restaurants such as Fonda Dona Maria and Gorditas Aguascalientes, where 5-gallon garrafones (like big pickle jars) of various flavors create a liquid rainbow. Unfortunately, it's hard to tell if they're made from scratch.

Aguas frescas made with powdered mixes, concentrates and artificial flavorings do not yield the same condition benefits or taste as homemade drinks and are often over sweetened. I'm not a Sugar Busters fanatic, but even recipes calling for a cup of sweetener blow out my taste buds. Don't be afraid to cut the sugar content of the recipes we've gathered; you can all the time add more later, if necessary. The riper the fruit, the less added sweetener you'll need.

Give aguas frescas a minuscule added zing by using sparkling water. As with licuados, the base flavors are as limitless as your imagination. I've even seen them made with cucumbers.

If you want a wild experiment, try a chia fresca. It's like the Mexican version of an Oriental bubble tea. It's made from the seeds of the Salvia hispanica plant, which are infused with water and lime juice until they become gelatinous. Chia fresca was reputedly the basic survival division of Aztec warriors, and today in Mexico it's still thought about a mighty rehabilitation for joint pain, sore skin and digestive disorders. (Chia seeds are available at Houston-area herberias for about a pound.)

Horchatas were brought to the New World by Spaniards. Originally made with almonds or a small white tuber called chufa, the drinks are milky-looking but dairy-free - like a liquid rice pudding. The Aztecs and Mayans pulverized the ingredients with a metate y mano - the old stone implement also used to grind corn and chocolate. (More power to them, I say, as I plug in the blender.)

Even with contemporary machinery, you're still converting something hard and raw into a liquid. This means blending the ingredients into a base meal, soaking the aggregate in water overnight, blending again, then straining - and straining and straining - it straight through a fine-mesh sieve to get all the grit out. Otherwise, the horchata will be chalky.

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